Fall is a time for gardeners to clean their flower beds, sharpen and clean tools, organize sheds and greenhouses, and tidy up to be ready for spring tasks. It may seem like a good time to prune trees and get them off your to-do list, but doing so can undo much of the hard work you put in before fall. Make sure your trees stay healthy and strong.
When adding trees to your lineup, make sure they are compatible with your growing zone. Doing so will set them up for success and make caring for them more enjoyable. A tree out of its element and experiencing high levels of stress will not thrive, so checking that your region aligns with its needs will produce the best results.
If you’re like me, your fall and winter checklists are in full force. When all the elements are controlled, I have peace of mind, allowing me to enjoy my winters and feel prepared for spring. let’s discuss Five reasons why you should never prune your trees in the fall.
Your tree is busy preparing for winter.
Humans greatly enjoy watching the transition from the greens of summer to the oranges, yellows and reds of autumn, so it’s hard for us to understand how hard trees are working internally. It is a significant effort that requires a lot of energy. Think about everything you do around your home and property as the seasons change to refresh, prepare and unload for the next season.
Trees and perennials do something similar internally in preparation for the changing seasons. Imagine someone asks you to give a speech just as you fall asleep at night. It probably wouldn’t be great, right?
As their colors change and leaves fall, the trees’ energy shifts toward their own autumn tasks, including sugar concentration, intentional dehydration, and cellular contraction. As they adapt to shorter days, colder temperatures and less water, Slow down your processes to prepare for downtime. Concentrated sugars serve as a natural antifreeze, helping them tolerate sub-zero temperatures, reducing the risk of them exploding from being too cold, and providing them with energy in the winter months.
The cells shrink and harden, preventing damage caused by freezing temperatures and high winds. Surviving winter in some regions is an impressive feat, so it takes a lot of preparation. Keep in mind that some species produce buds in the summer months that will overwinter without problems. Pruning too early can eliminate them, giving you a less spectacular show in the spring.
They need to concentrate energy on their roots.
We often discuss the need for a robust root systemwhich anchors plants to the soil, helps prevent loss of nutrients and topsoil, and ensures proper growth and immune response. When we can during the fall transition period, Forces energy toward injured areas. rather than allowing the tree to focus on its root system. This can be detrimental to the health and longevity of the tree.
Instead, take advantage of cooler working temperatures. Soil temperatures will remain warm, encouraging roots to expand and stretch deeper into the groundwell out of sight. Once the trees lose their leaves, they can concentrate on underground activity. When they wake up in spring, deep, strong roots mean a healthy start to the season!
Damage from recent injuries.
Imagine having a big, fresh cut on your arm and going outside, exposed to the wind and cold, without covering yourself. You can imagine the pain you may feel when the air hits the open wound. Trees may not “feel” the same as we do, but wounds, even those caused by necessary pruning, are still wounds and should be treated as such. Also remember that several types of beetles are still active in the fall, and Injuries can exacerbate your damage..
The best time to prune is during torpor when there is less activity within the tree and the risk of disease spread is significantly reduced. Winter pruning encourages new spring growth. Wounds made during the winter will heal more quickly during the spring months.
Note: Spring-flowering plants, such as azaleas, should not be pruned until they have bloomed. Pruning in winter removes fresh buds, so you won’t have spring flowers.
While it was once common to see tree wounds closed with white paint, updated research tells us to leave them alone and Allow them to supplement their natural immunity. answer for best results. According to the University of Illinois ExtensionTrees will respond to a wound with wound tissue, which will seal the pruning cut.
Sealing it with paint is harmful as oxygen is required for this process to occur. Healthy specimens are more likely to protect themselves from future attacks, so it is our job to keep them as healthy as possible.
Many fungal and bacterial pathogens thrive in the cool, moist conditions of fall. In many regions, autumn brings freshness, humid climate, wreaking havoc on newly pruned trees and bushes. These pathogens can easily enter open wounds when humidity levels are high.
Oak wilt, Nectria canker, Dutch elm disease, bacterial canker, fire blight, apple scab, peach scab, and blossom wilt are just a few of the diseases those to pay attention to in the fall. Proper pruning, copper spraysand immediate removal of infected tree parts They work to control some of these, but oak wilt and bacterial canker have no proven treatments in home gardeners.
Trust your sources when bringing new trees to your property. Select disease resistant varieties and grafts when available. Contact your local experts if you’re unsure what’s going on with your garden. Fast action is always better!
Keep your eyes wide open for elm leaf beetles (Xanthogaleruca luteola). These pests chew holes in leaves and may hibernate in surrounding areas, ready to cause more problems in future years. Unfortunately, this pest has few natural enemies, so prevention or chemical control are the only options.
Pro tip: Always disinfect your pruning tools before and after using them to prevent future spread and avoid pruning when conditions are wet.
You don’t want to encourage new growth before winter.
The new growth is green and vulnerable. Promoting new growth before winter exposes you to extreme conditions that you are not prepared for. As we have already mentioned, autumn offers the perfect conditions for plants to concentrate on their root system. Leaving them alone for a few months allows them to naturally do what they know how to do. Let the tree close its shops for the year (and you do the same) and Encourage new spring growth during winter pruning sessions..
Waiting until the trees are leafless will allow you to see the shape more clearly and create an efficient pruning plan. You may see overlapping and twisted branches, growth outside the desired canopy shape, and dead or diseased branches.
Exceptions to the rule
Light pruning may be recommended if your tree shows signs of illness or has lower branches close to or touching the ground. Contact a local arborist or tree specialist at your local extension office for necessary assistance.
A note on conifers
Fir and pine trees retain their needles all year round and don’t go into total lethargy as deciduous species. Pine needles retain more moisture and allow them to convert sunlight to chlorophyll year-round, which is why they are sometimes called evergreens.
While they do not remain completely dormant, their bark and branches offer insulation and protection from the cold, so should be pruned in spring such as deciduous trees for best results.
What to do in the fall instead
- Clean up garden debris.
- Determine your coverage plan
- Amend your soil so it’s ready for spring
- Cover crop to suppress weeds and reduce soil erosion.
- Be patient until your trees are dormant before pruning.
Are you stuck on which trees to choose? Consider low-maintenance trees like holly, witch hazel, and winterberry, which still provide shade, beauty, pollinator attractionand height.
