7 Mom’s Fertilizer Tips for the Best Flowers EpicGardening Guide

Chrysanthemums bloom abundantly, hallmark of autumn from early autumn to frost In the striking colors of the season. Red, gold, orange or violet flowers cover rounded dark green leaves, perfect for a cheerful welcome at the front door or for decorating garden beds.

It takes a lot of energy to produce a bushy bloom, and light, timely feeding helps enhance its beauty. With an easy and strategic application of fertilizer or organic amendments, the beautiful mothers continue to bloom all season long.

Role of fertilizer for mothers.

biologically rich and moist soil, Brave moms don’t need fertilizer to grow and bloom. They will probably have a loose, cascading shape with a distinctive fall-colored mantle. I love this natural look along the edge of a wall or border, where the leaves soften the edge and the flowers add surprise.

Moderation and types

Just as fertilizers promote plant growth, an excessive amount or inappropriate timing of application hinders them. Too much nitrogen causes overproduction of leaves and stems, which often become weak due to excessively rapid growth. This results in long, flexible branches. Adding too much fertilizer prevents the buds from flowering, resulting in fewer flowers. Excessive salt damages the roots.

Although fertilizing chrysanthemums is easy, the timing and method are important. Feeding during its vegetative stage is valuable, ensuring Nitrogen and potassium Helps healthy leaf and root development.

When to fertilize moms

The best time to fertilize chrysanthemums is to feed them before the budding stage and before the heat of summer. This means spring and summer applications depending on the type of fertilizer. And those you want to compost or throw away at the end of the season don’t need to be fertilized.

always follow the app Guidelines and measures To prevent overfertilization. Aim for a roughly balanced formula, using the NPK (nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium) ratio. Nitrogen promotes leaf and stem growth, phosphorus stimulates roots and flowering/fruiting, and potassium promotes strong stems. When it comes to mothers, we want to avoid extremely high amounts of phosphorus (P) early in the season to avoid premature flowering.

growth stage

For garden planting and potting, use a well-balanced fertilizer at the time of planting. If transplanting divisions or establishing a specimen in a nursery pot, wait a few weeks to apply the balanced formula. Young transplants need time to establish roots, and pots prepared for display are usually fertilized before sale and flowering. For established perennials, begin a regimen in the spring, when frost has passed and new growth is four to six inches tall.

Stop fertilizing once buds appear. start to develop Early to mid summer. At this point, plants should devote energy to flowering rather than leaf growth. It also gives plants a break during the hot summer when growth slows. You may choose to use a high phosphorus fertilizer in the fall to promote root growth (without interfering with flowering).

how to fertilize mothers

Fertilize mums early in the day and out of the strong rays of the afternoon sun. Cloudy conditions are ideal for preventing burns. Wash plants and roots immediately after using the granules. When planting (especially in poor soil), add one to half a pound per 100 square feet and mix it into the soil.

When granular materials are used, spread it evenly Around the base of the plant, away from the stems. Even distribution helps prevent damage from hot spots and burns.

Use liquid and water-soluble fertilizers as a foliar and root application, spraying the foliar and root zone to distribute nutrients. Plants absorb and utilize liquid diets faster, so they are applied more frequently than granules.

Consider the pH

Chrysanthemums prefer rich, clay soils with good drainage. They thrive in neutral to slightly acidic soils with a pH between 6.5 and 7.0. If your mothers show signs of yellowing despite fertilization (and overwatering or underwatering is not a problem), there may be a pH imbalance.

Beneficial microorganisms do their best work. neutral to slightly acidic soilIrregular levels of acidity or alkalinity affect the roots’ ability to access and absorb nutrients. Beneficial microbes have a difficult time breaking down organic matter for roots.

If your soil is alkaline, it has a high pH level (above 7.5). Soil with a higher pH is less soluble, making it difficult for roots to absorb nutrients. The inability to access nutrients causes yellowing of the leaves (chlorosis) and loss of vigor. Use iron to counteract chlorosis in the short term. being added garden sulfur It lowers pH levels and makes them less alkaline over time.

In low pH (acidic) soils, essential macronutrients Like calcium, phosphorus and magnesium become less available. Excess aluminum causes toxicity at high levels. Add calcium (eggshells) and magnesium (Epsom salts) to remedy the situation. Soil amendments in autumn with garden lemon Helps balance pH levels for the next season.

The best way to determine pH is through soil testing. team at home Who interprets the results and provides recommendations to help. Evaluate soil conditions. What else needs to improve? Your local university extension office is another resource for testing and recommendations.

Post flowering care

The best time to plant chrysanthemums is fall or spring, and planting chrysanthemums in late fall puts them at risk of surviving the winter because most of their energy is spent blooming rather than establishing roots. To protect the roots, cover them with a layer of mulch. cut the stems Use a light layer of mulch on the crown or evergreen branches after heavy frosts when they enter winter dormancy, and for additional protection from snow and frost (natural freeze-thaw cycle of the soil). The heat of frost can damage roots and expose them to winter conditions.

The mothers also spend the winter in pits. Transfer nursery-planted selections to a larger pot. In cold climates, move them to a cool, sheltered location, such as a garage or basement, until spring temperatures warm. Periodically check the soil moisture to prevent the roots from drying out completely. After the plants resprout, stop fertilizing until new growth appears in the spring.