Not all trees need to be tied, but some do. what is at stake allows the youth so that plants grow stronger And if they have difficulty staying upright, they become obese. Most trees are good, as the curvatures of their trunks straighten as they mature and become thick. Others are not so lucky and need additional help before they mature.
You’ll want to stake these three types of woody plants: saplings, saplings, and weak trees. They benefit from some stabilization early in life. After a season or two of staking, their stems will become thick and strong enough to withstand wind, snow, and excessive rain.
These staking steps will guide you through the process, whether you have a new transplant or an established specimen. After a season or two of support, plants planted on the benches will grow into tall, straight trees. Continue to find your species. Long, strong and vigorous!
Does your tree need staking?
Not all trees need to be tied! If they are not supported when young, they develop strong stems. The plant becomes loose due to natural fluctuations in wind conditions. chemical called cytokininThese chemicals cause stem cells to expand and thicken, creating stronger, woodier plant tissue.
voiced Will not damage your sampleHowever, most trees recover after a few seasons of rapid growth. If it grows in a windy location, if the trunk is too weak to stand without support, or if the upper branches are larger than the bottom half of the tree, hedge your bets.
young plant
maybe you grew up cherry tree From a seed or a young specimen from last year’s planting in your garden. Young plants generally do not need to be tied up unless they are weak or have a sloppy structure. Bent trees are fine as long as they are straightened after the wind dies down.
If your plants bend and stay bent, they will need bets for additional support Until they can support their weight. Staking them when they are small will help them grow straight before their stems thicken.
new implant
The best time to stake a tree is after planting it; You will now be digging a hole where you can drill the support posts. Some implants will not require staking, while others will. If your transplant bends in the wind or a small ball of its root comes out of the hole, you may want to tie down your tree.
The process for staking new transplants is different from staking transplants. roots in the groundFear not, because we will explain what to do in both situations.
weak tree
Older specimens sometimes need support if their top becomes heavier than their trunk. Help them grow and they will remain strong without help for decades to come. Trees that have recently lost some of their roots due to digging or animal activity are also good candidates for staking while they recover.
The general rule is: if the tree bends but stands on its own without assistance, it does not need to be cut down. If so, then it requires a bet. encounterIt grows sideways or bends excessively.
Step 1: Boost two strong bets
The first step is to drive pillars into the ground that act as a strong anchor base. They create two stronger structures so the plant stays upright even in stormy conditions. The way you drive the stakes depends on the type of tree you have.
When planting shrubs or woody trees that require bracing, you will want rethink At the opposite end of the hole near the root ball. Drill two wooden or metal posts so that they oppose each other with the tree in the middle. Place them so that the strongest winds flow through the space between them.
It is very easy to help existing trees. Simply drive or drill two stakes into opposite ends of the tree. As with new transplants, place them so that the strongest winds flow through the space between them. Use appropriately sized stakes for your tree; They should be a little longer than where the upper branches emerge from the main trunk.
Step 2: Determine Support Points
The fulcrum is where the links connect to the tree. where is cable tie Your plant will benefit best if it is kept upright. Find it with this simple trick:
- Starting three feet off the ground, insert two fingers behind your torso to lift it up.
- Keep moving your fingers upward until they fully support the tree.
- Mark the place in the trunk.
- The fulcrum is six inches above this mark.
This point is usually lower in young plants and longer in existing specimens. It is important to tie the cables to the support point, not down or up in the trunk. Placing it higher causes the wood to split and placing it lower does not keep the awning straight. Follow this trick to know where to tie the wire, no matter the age or youth of the plant.
Step 3: Tie the Tree to the Stakes
The type of tie you wear has a big impact on how well it works. Wire or soft coated wire never works as they eventually go around the stem after digging into the wood. Wear Fabric, canvas or rubber collar. Who are strong but generous. With some flexibility, your specimen can sway in the wind, benefiting from the additional structure.
Once you’ve stuck it into the ground, simply tie the tree. Attach one end of the tie to a metal or wooden post and the other end to a support point on the tree. Tie a second tie below or above this tie on the trunk and tie the other end to another tie.
would you like hardening of relationships With some discount. Keep enough slack in each tie to allow the log to move two inches in either direction. This extra space is important for strong trunk growth: it partly triggers the release of cytokinins that thicken and strengthen the wood.
Step 4: Remove stakes and ties
After six months to a year it will be time to eliminate those bets! Supports are temporary supports that promote the tree to grow well on its own. If left too long, they will begin to hinder growth rather than support it. So how do you know when to remove them?
When trees are ready to go pegless Protect yourself from wind, rain or snow Without achieving a permanent turn. If you remove the ties and discover that your tree is still leaning, tie them again and check the plant in a month or two.
The stakes are ready to be removed when the tree is not bending or bending on its own and the root base is strong. Push the tree a little to see how it reacts and make the best decision based on how it moves. After six months, the fulcrum may have shifted; You can again determine where you are using the two-finger test.
Step 5: Repeat for weak trees
Sometimes woody species struggle to establish Themselves in difficult circumstances. Or, extreme storms damage them, requiring them to be replaced. Whatever the cause of a weak tree, there is nothing wrong with retying stakes and ties to support it a second time.
Repeat this staking process as many times as necessary until the plants grow and can emerge without assistance. Some species produce weak, fast-growing wood, while others are tougher but slower growing. Adjust the staking period to match the trees’ needs and they will thank you with strong growth!
Follow the annual additions of add fertilizer to the soilAND Prune Dead or diseased wood. Your trees will be happy, healthy and strong as they adapt to their best shape. You will be surprised to look at old specimens and remember how they were once young, fragile plants that needed your help.
Frequently asked questions
Start staking when your tree needs it, regardless of seasonal conditions. This is easiest to do when the soil is slightly moist and you can dig it up easily, such as in early fall or spring.
It takes between six months and a year for this system to work properly. Check your plant after six months to check its strength. If it bends excessively, retie the ties for a month or two until the tree stands on its own.
You must bury the stake again so that it is upright. A bent stake will not work as well as a straight stake; Place it in thick soil that will stay firm regardless of weather or soil conditions.
